Day Five - Fes

Day Five

Date:     2 May 2013

Place:    Fes

Weather:   Sunny and warm.

Accommodation:   Hotel Fes Inn

This morning we drove to Sefrou which is a town about forty minutes south of Fes.   Firstly, we went up to the lookout to see the town from a nearby hilltop and then on to pick up the French speaking local guide.

It was market day in Sefrou and many people were heading to the souk (market) with their wares, some on donkeys. 

Sefrou is historically divided into two – the Arab and Jewish quarters.  This town was a real eye-opener as much as we were in awe and even some trepidation in Fes, Sefrou is much more dilapidated, dirty and confronting.  Two policemen followed our group which I was assured by Said our Peregrine guide was for our own safety to ensure we were not the victims of crime.  Our shadow Peregrine group did not have an escort as they were a smaller group.

We visited a furniture factory where new pieces were made out of oak and cedar and many old pieces were being repaired including doors.  Upstairs were rooms were men were sewing intricate patterns in silk on gowns and we finally knew what the long lengths of string strung alongside buildings was – silk buttons.  The lovely robes worn by the men and women have copious amounts of tiny buttons down the front and we could see that they were big business in Sefrou as the women clamoured around tiny stores choosing small plastic bags full of the beautiful items.

Pictures paint a thousand words but unfortunately I did not take too many as I did not feel comfortable with this – there were many stares at the women however we were friendly and said ‘bon jour’ when we made eye contact – often met with a smile or nod in return.

We stopped at one small foundry where an 85 year old man was honing knives – such a delightful old man who was very obliging with photos.  Suffice to say there were many things that opened our eyes including live chooks being weighed and then killed.  Said, our guide, explained to me that a special word is spoken before the bird is killed and then it is decapitated facing the east.  That’s about as fresh as you can get!

Market day.

 



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85...and not out!  Proves hard work never killed anyone!

Sefrou

Sefrou

The blood stained water ran down a gutter between the stalls and we stepped carefully so as not to fall!  We were going to buy fruit but most of us lost interest after this.  Just fifty metres on from the sights and smells of the market we entered a lovely large café and enjoyed café au laits.  Our group had the only women and as you don’t see women in cafes so we attracted a few stares.

Our French speaking guide took us to his home for a couscous meal so I had the chance to try out a bit of my French on him.  He was a really lovely chap whose leathered face was worn from a million smiles.  He told me he had six children, three boys and three girls, aged between three and eighteen.

This was the first time he had entertained a group in his home and it was a real honour to be with his lovely family –nothing was too much trouble.  We enjoyed eating a vegetable and chicken couscous in the traditional style of eating out of the one large dish.  The meal was finished with mint tea.

Fabulous home cooked couscous.

 

The afternoon was at our disposal so some of us took up the offer of going back to the Medina in Fes with Hashim our guide from yesterday and visiting the weaving shop and generally having another look around.  After my trepidation yesterday I felt much more comfortable walking around the Medina.  I collected my leather jacket which fits perfectly so I was a happy customer.

The weaving room....fabulous scarves...bought two.

Desley with the lovely little children in a school in the Medina.....too cute for words!

 

So many donkeys....and very useful in the narrow alley ways.

 

The evening was an exciting affair visiting an old house built in the riad style (courtyard) and watching a show, dining and listening to traditional music.  We had a lovely time watching a magician, belly dancing and drumming.  David, Cameron and I among others in the group were chosen to participate in the tassel twirling which is attached to a skull cap.  The chap who recruited us barely shook his head while we looked like we were gyrating our whole bodies.  I, unbelievably, managed to be able to do it!

Who knew my hidden talent was head twirling with a tassel?

 

It was a long and interesting day in many ways.