Tuesday, May 7, 2013

Day Seven Midelt - Merzouga


Day Seven

Date:     4 May 2013

Place:    Midelt - Merzouga

Weather:   Sunny and hot

Accommodation:   Sahara Desert!

Today had an exciting feeling about it as we knew we were headed to the Sahara Desert and the Berber camp!  We had quite a bit of driving to do before arriving at the edge of the desert.
The restaurant where we had dinner the previous evening.

Our sandcastle hotel.....a fantastic place to stay!
 
It was a couple of hours before we reached our first stop for the day at Er Rachidia with a few photo shoots at panoramic view spots of a major dam and the spectacular Ziz Gorge along the way.  Er Rachidia was set up by the French and it has been maintained as a significant military base in the region due in part to the nearness of Algerian territory claims.
The changing landscape.

I'm glad we went by bus!

Camel trains began to become more frequent!
 
We passed a busy souk (market) on the way before heading to lunch at Aoufouss which is in the Ziz Valley.  Along the valley are palm groves, walnut trees, date palms and general food being grown.  We had our first taste of Berber omelette which was delicious – whole eggs cooked in a tomato, onion and herb base.  It was served with freshly baked flat bread.
The souk (market) we passed a little way after Er Rachidia.  Very busy!

The delicious Berber omelette.....saffron gives it a wonderful colour.
 
Forty minutes down the road we stopped at a distributor and seller of fossil products.  The area is known as the Jurassic area for its world famous fossils – all dating backwards from 360 million years.  There was an amazing array of products to purchase but they are all very heavy.  We came away with a fossilised snail key ring.  We wandered around the yard and it turned out to be one of the hottest days so far so we were grateful to head in doors.

Fossilised jelly-fish.....an astounding display of fossils.
 
At Rissani it was to be our last stop for water before heading to the desert.  Of course, we bought the Berber head scarves to look the part on our camels – on the encouragement of our lovely guide….then we had to learn how to tie them!
Some people needed more help with their Berber scarf tying.....our guide laughed when he saw this!
 
The excitement was building as we caught our first sight of the sienna hued sand dunes in the distance.  Small camel caravans dotted the landscape and Berber camps were becoming more frequent.
Getting nearer......

Looking out to a Berber camp from the hotel.
 
We finally arrived at the base hotel where we were to leave our luggage.  Our small bag was already packed  with essential items (toothbrush and toothpaste and warm gear).  The tour group sat on the verandah sipping mint tea and organising our head scarf tying before our camels arrived.  The scene was truly memorable as we looked over a Berber camp, camel trains walking past and the huge dunes in the background!
 A Berber princess we met on the way!
 
 

....probably the hand-maiden!
 
Laurence of Arabia finally got it right (with a lot of help!)
 
Our shadow Peregrine group was coming to the camp with us and we formed two camel trains of about eight camels with a Berber leader at each.  Three of our group stayed behind at the hotel as it was going to be a bit difficult for them as they are all in their late seventies or early eighties.  The three lovely ladies gave us excited waves as we left with a bump and a grind into the desert.

It was an hour to the camp and I loved every minute of it!  It’s hard not to take photos at every turn as the colours change from soft amber hues to pinkish tones.  The sharp lines of the dunes form a crisp contrast of colours and every now and then small hardy spots of grass appear.
How about this?


David, Desley and I.....the runt of the group got the runt of the camels!
 
Yep, pretty amazing!
 
We passed several Berber camps along the way before we awkwardly (and gingerly!) climbed down from our camels.

The camp was a lovely surprise with mats over the sand floor and a sheet covered mattress on the floor.  We wandered off in all directions to see the sun set on the dunes and enjoy the complete serenity.


Outside our Berber tent....mats on the floor and a mattress.  Pity we missed the blanket instructions!

The camp taken from a sand-dune....we didn't make it all the way to the top!
 
The Peregrine groups sat around in a circle on mats and enjoyed mint tea, olives, nuts and dried fruit before couscous, chicken and vegetables were served for dinner. 
After dinner entertainment!
 
The stars became clearer in the jet black sky as we were lucky to have a new moon.  The two Berbers played the traditional tom-toms and our guides joined in.  Most of us were co-erced into the dancing around the fire and we copied the Berber who was great fun.

About tennish we wandered off to bed, tired and exhilarated after a truly amazing experience.

This was a day to be remembered!

 

 

 

 

 

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